The right tour for the right traveller

How to live like a local in Valencia

Posted on 29 November 2019

After visiting the city on a whim the previous year, the freelance journalist decided this was the place to experience the celebrated Spanish lifestyle. When not searching for the perfect paella or working on rolling his Rs, he tells anyone who’ll listen why Valencia is Spain’s best city.

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A typical weekend involves... the beach. Valencia’s vast stretch of sand is one of Europe’s best city beaches. In winter, couples come for a fresh morning walk along the promenade and in summer the sand and sea are the places to be. I like to stroll the length of the promenade from the marina down to Patacona, which is typically less crowded. Lunch is usually fried seafood at Llevant or a rice dish at Casa Navarro. Then it's back to the beach and, during the summer months, a caipirinha at one of the chilled chiringuitos (beach bars) on the sand.

When I have friends in town… I take them to La Lonja de la Seda. The Gothic former silk exchange is a grandiose introduction to the city’s history and an insight into the power and wealth Valencia enjoyed in the 15th and 16th centuries. A few doors down, in the shadow of the grand Mercado Central, Boatella tapas bar is a fine place to sample Valencia’s famed fresh produce. There isn’t much better than sitting in the sun with a plate of fried artichokes and a cold beer. 

The city comes alive during… Las Fallas. The fiery festival in March sees about 800 elaborate, colourful sculptures displayed on the streets before all but two are burnt in a citywide bonfire. Visit the Museo Fallero if you want to see those pardoned in previous years. There are also daily mascletàs (earth-shaking displays of pyrotechnic power) and nightly fireworks that keep exploding until the early hours. Yes, it’s crowded, chaotic and impossible to get much sleep, but it’s also a lot of fun.